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As soon as we reached New Orleans we went ashore, and I was paid off -about one hundred dollars. New Orleans is a very irregular town protected from the river by great levees. It lies in the middle of a great morass which is covered by cypress trees. It is five English miles from Lake Ponchartrain, and has about eighty thousand inhabitants. In the summer it is very unhealthy to live here, and most of the rich move up the river. It is very expensive to live here. In this season the cholera was raging and they paid grave-diggers fourteen dollars a day. It is a very immoral town and Sundays are very little respected. It was nothing strange, in the morning, to see murdered people lying in the streets. The inhabitants consist of all possible nationalities, though mostly French and Spanish. Here is also a French Theatre. As I intended to go home in the spring as soon as I earned a little more money, I stayed only two days in New Orleans. Then I went down to Lake Ponchartrain on a railroad to hire to the steamboat "Watchman" that was hunting a crew. That was the first time I rode on a railroad. The locomotive pulled twenty to thirty cars so fast you could scarcely see anything near by. They could go still faster, but, as the distance is only five and a half miles they have to begin to stop before they are fairly started. It is very dangerous to ride on, as the least obstacle on the track will overthrow the train. It is not seldom that someone gets hurt as they go so fast. They have a piece of wood fastened in front to throw things off the track, but it does not always help. I saw the train once run over a cow which could not get off the track fast enough. The locomotive, being heavy, did not turn over, but all the cars, as they struck the cow, toppled over one by one, and two people killed. The whole road was running through cypress trees growing in the swamp. It was evening when I went out there, and such a serenade of frogs I have never heard. The bull-frog bellows as loud as an ox, and has often scared me when I walked along this road in the evenings. Later in the spring you can hear thousands of turtle doves cooing. They love to stay in the cypress trees. I had brought only four dollars with me. The rest I left in my trunk which stood in my lodging house. When I came to the lake I took hire right away on the "Watchman" which took the mail to Mobile. It should make the trip in two days, for which it received two hundred dollars. But, if it went aground, or was delayed in any way, it had to pay one hundred dollars fine. It was a handsome boat - the first steamboat I was on. But, although I was getting twenty-five dollars a month, I soon got tired of it. It steered so badly in shoals that when one stood his two hours at the helm he could hardly move his arms when at last relieved. After having delivered the mail at Mobile we started back, but did not reach the railroad till the third day, so had to pay the hundred dollar fine. When I got there I received my pay and wanted to go up to New Orleans on the cars. But when I went to pay my fare, and put my hand in my pocket, my purse was gone. I had to give my watch as security, and later go and get it back. But a still greater pleasure awaited me. When I went to my lodging I found my trunk open and fifty dollars gone. The rest was not touched. My host said it must be Tom, whose wedding we made up in Baltimore, who had taken it, 15
Koch, Christian Diary-15