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at his stand where one could also pick up a supply of hogshead cheese, pate' or 'boudiri (blood sausage), a sanguinary spicy delight to'appeal to the Creole’s .well-known preference for highly seasoned food.	'
Breakfast was served promptly at 11 o’clock. The family would gather in the . dining room for a hearty mid-morning ‘.-repast which began with cantaloupe or ^honeydew melon, strawberries, grillades ” and grits.("always”), sausages and hash browned potatoes. Steaming cups of chicory coffee serv ed only with boiled milk followed to be enjoyed with hot biscuits or maybe crepes on a festive occasion. “Crepes as a dessert were an innovation of the restaurants,” pointed out ^Mr. Perrilliat.
: “Most of the families had a servant ,who would stay through the 6 o’clock evening meal, where the family would ^ be joined by grandparents, aunts and ;•/! uncles and assorted cousins.”
-5 Though the children were relegated tow .\;the pantry, they partook of the same ’^.multi-course meal, and their banishment jwas assuaged by small glasses of wine "'diluted with seltzer. A typical dinner might include a	soup,	chicken, a	fish
(usually broiled	trout	or mackerel)	a
!'j;1 congre (corn pudding) and hot French ' bread known as a frog loaf which could _ be split down the middle. Dessert was ■ . •.’ "' i~> the piece dc resistance — a glace or lassat(only) ■ savarin (wine cake) purchased only family would , from Padres on Frenchmen Street. i Market for ij. With the Creole’s vaunted enthusiasm Tantalizing ; for good food, Mr. Perrilliat eloquently the collection described in loving detail pne of his e merchants’ ^ favorite desserts — meringues pressed i modern spe- j around a scoop of ice cream, topped with -«'\ V/t whipped cream and sprinkled with ange-carle, a large ; 7/que, a uniquely French crystallized . ich expanded j seasoning which slightly resembled this-doubtless be ,, tie, obtainable only in France,"which he all and hand- ‘guarantees in his inimitable verbiage'to who sold the | be so good that after eating “you think i to	look over	v you’ve died and to gone	to heaven.”	' •
uittorf (a par-	j	. ..,	* » *
cuisine), spe- ' Rarely, leaving their environs, the sons id, a small.:, and daughters of the Creoles on Espla-i nade would be sent to school at either
SECTION FOUR—NEW ORLEANS,
, SUNDAY FEBRUARY 1. 1976,»	.	.	..
.CH _
“ONDIT” BEGIN THE CREOLE LADIES DURING THEIR . .	'	AFTERNOON	STROLL
“neatly trim-ical Gaelic] cooking, Mr. < succulent de-hod of cook-’, time, a leg of ’ with spinach,]
one of the three private schools, Senas, . Guillot Institute or that formidable citadel of learning referred to quite seriously as “Vatinelle’s University,” .‘which offered a veritable degree in life
bers. “We entered through a tunnel-like entrance scarcely big enough for a Lilliputian to the upstairs dining room where all the classes were conducted around a big table.” (An educational experiment which some of the progressive
tress, Mrs! Hosmer, or, her keen-eyed sister, Miss Chlorin, and Miss Fremaux, whose task was to instill the tenets of the Catechism in her Catholic charges.
'Almost painfully, he remembers a'sil-ver thimble worn by Miss Chlorin, a no-, vith spinach,^ as well as_ learning through its sixth- schools of today seem to feel is innova.- nonsense lady, who wouldn’t hesitate fo-to cool and- -gradecurriculum. '	.X:.-;'tive with them.) • '5^>';.bring that thimble ‘‘'down on your head
- &■',	^	“Vatinelle’s was located on Esplanade ‘.‘‘There would be anywhere from’ 10 to*. 'like a pile driver if you didn’t know your
Creole table j right off of Chartres, identified by* two j! 14 students studying together, all at dif- tables	1
:ed turkey, or- jittle'wooden gates out front (which are ferenC'levels and different Subjects,” /jv, Ve^, he is sufe’’"that education at ‘the
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