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some sulfur that soon killed them, but when I took the first mouthful of honey I still got a sting on my tongue. After having stayed ashore for a fortnight I took leave of Mr. Williams. He was very kind to me, and I was sorry to leave him. I went to New Orleans in the beginning of July. I could not get a chance to go up the river at once, so I stayed there some days and used a shameful lot of money. The sticky season had already begun and the heat was about to kill me. Not a breeze moved. At noon it was difficult to breathe. I went around hunting shade like a dog, and drank every day about one dollar's worth of lemonade. One evening I got into a gambling place where they were playing Roulette. I thought I thought I would try my fortune, and in less than ten minutes had lost twenty dollars. Luckily I had no more money, or I guess I would have kept on playing. After four days I went aboard the steamer, "Scotland", bound for Cincinnati and Louisville, about fifteen or seventeen hundred English miles up the Mississippi and Ohio rivers. It cost only seven dollars in second cabin to either place. The country is cultivated on both sides with sugar plantations the first two hundred miles. All along are levees protecting the land. Higher Up is nothing but woods, only interrupted once in a while by a single cornfield or a woodcutters cabin, with many miles between. In the cornfields the larger trees are still standing dead, as they only kill them and let them stand until they fall themselves. Twice a day we had to land to take in wood. We burned about twenty or thirty cords in twenty-four hours. We were two hundred passengers in second cabins, and twenty to thirty in first. The heat was so fearful, and so many people were packed together that, after we had been out only three days, cholera broke out aboard. It was twelve very disagreeable days I had to spend on board. The passengers were mostly immigrant Germans and Irish and some Americans, who were the worst outlaws one could find anywhere. The sickness spread fast, and in twelve days I was on the vessel twenty-four died, mostly Germans. Most of the passengers had no more feeling than if it had been animals dying. When one was lying fighting death others would sit right by him playing cards and drinking. As soon as one was dead they stopped the ship, dug a shallow grave and threw him into it with out a coffin, covered him barely with sand, and were off again. I do not think cholera is contagious for I often rubbed men when they were taken with cramps. They suffered terribly and often screamed most awfully, but seldom it lasted more than half a day. An hour after the attack they were so changed one could hardly know them. Their eyes sank in their heads and their whole bodies shrank together. I rubbed their legs and arms with rum often, and I did not take it, so I do not think you can get it by contact. Very few recovered, and it was a long time before their strength came back. In ten days from New Orleans we arrived at the mouth of the Ohio, where we should go up to reach Louisville. The water in the Ohio is perfectly clear, while the Mississippi is muddy and thick, so one can see clear water on one side and muddy on the other over half a mile after the Ohio runs into the Mississippi. The scenery changes at once from the flat land as soon as one comes into the Ohio. The banks are high and mountainous with beautiful small valleys and creeks. It is more cultivated, also, and there are more houses and more towns. The water rises very high in the spring, but in the summer it is 21
Koch, Christian Diary-21