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12D Today / November 2000
A history of mystery on one oak island
By Jill Easton
Moss-draped oaks surround the foundation of Baldwin Lodge on an oak island near the mouth of the Pearl River. This beautiful spot is accessible only by boat or railroad. The swimming pool, fountains, tile-decorated walkways and granite foundations speak of a destination that drew affluent visitors.
Repeated calls to historical societies and experts along the coast turned up no information on when it was built or what happened to the structures. Just one of many unknowns in this river of grasses that separates land and sea.
French explorers visited the area in 1699, but d'Iberville found the waters too shallow for his ships. However, he was impressed with the hunting, noting in his log that they took 50 deer, along with buffalo and other game.
Ansley was first settled by Jean Cadet La Fontaine around 1810 at the end of a long trip down the Mississippi River from Canada.
For the next few years the area was a hot
spot of activity as various groups tried to gain control of the vast areas of land that included Hancock County.
A plot to free Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte from his exile on Elba in 1814 was hatched in New Orleans. Napoleon's brother set up a camp somewhere along the Pearl River, which was to be the center of the new nation. This location has never been found although the towns of Napoleon and Caesar still recollect the attempt.
In 1814 General Andrew Jackson's army marched through the area on its way to defend New Orleans. The British forces transited the channel south of here on their way to the Battle of New Orleans.
Also during this time various buccaneers, including Jean Lafitte, were supposed to have buried treasures on oak islands in the area. None of this pirate booty has ever been found.
The mysteries are many and the marsh probably will never reveal its secrets. ?
Above, a stairway to nowhere is shrouded by Spanish moss at the site of the old Baldwin Lodge on an oak island at the junction of the Pearl River and Campbell Inside Bayou. Photo by Jill Easton. At left, Jill Easton looks at some of the ruins of the old lodge. Photo by Ken Fanning.
Fish tales get bigger at liar's tree
Between the store at the live bait tanks at La France Fish Camp is an ancient moss-draped oak. The oak tree, located by the main bulkhead of the bayou, is surrounded by benches and chairs. This tree is famed as one of the best places in the world to tell a fish story.
"This is our bragging rights tree; of course, some folks call it less polite names," said Dave Robertson.
About sundown, boaters and campers all seem to end up under this oak. It's a place to tell a fish story, talk about the weather or just catch up on what's been going on with each other's lives. For convenience, the main bulkhead provides easy access because it has a built-in step along the whole length. This allows folks in even the smallest boats to get ashore without the usual scrambling up or jumping down.
La France is like many camping and fishing areas; regulars get to know each other and become friends over the years. They may not see each other for a year or two, but they just kind of pick up where they left off.
"Three men canoed down the entire length of the Pearl River," said Pam Ramage. "The first thing they did when they got here was to sit down under this tree. They claimed they'd been hearing about the liar's tree all the way down the river and they wanted to see what it felt like." ?
Dave Robertson and Pam Ramage sit under the liar?s tree, a popular gathering spot for fishermen to share their stories. Photo by Ken Fanning.