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but their maneuvers are a sorry sight, although they have many English officers and sailors. The greater part of the inhabitants are Indians and Negroes. Many Negroes are still imported from Africa. It is strange to see these men, all naked, and with the wool shaved off their heads, which gives them a very ugly look. They have fireworks all the time, especially on John the Baptist's birthday, with large processions. There were so many people I could not see much, but there were lots of monks with their black robes, and boys with white and red capes. The foreign consuls live outside of town with nearly all the nations' flags flying. But, alas, I did not see the Danish flag. The country here is hilly and rough, covered with trees and high grass. Here and there is an old-fashioned castle. The Negroes rowed about in their boats selling parakeets. I bought one, but on the way home it fell overboard and drowned. We took on ballast to go to Pernambuco to get a load of sugar. We were made to do it on Sunday, which did not set good, and we put it behind our ears till we got home. Four days later we landed again at Pernambuco. Here I saw the first two Danish vessels since we left St. Croix, but as customs forbids going on board a ship before it is unloaded, I had to stay where I was. Some days after a boat from one of them came close by us. I called to them to find out where the ship came from. One of them was M. Smith, whom I knew. He knew me right away and called out, "Why, is it really you, Christian?" He was as glad as I was, but he was going ashore to get the captain, so there was no time to talk. I walked on needles till the day after, when we got to talk a little together. The next Sunday we went ashore together, and that was the happiest day I had since I left Denmark. I saw him once more before we left a few days later. We arrived after twenty-eight days in Baltimore, having had a fine voyage, at the close of August. The first thing we did was to go to Rev. Tailor and tell him how we had to work on Sunday, and how poorly we were fed. Sure enough, the next Sunday he gave us a sermon about it, and even called the captain by name. The captain was present, but got up and went out. While I was in Baltimore I went down to Washington with the post wagon to see the capitol. That is the biggest and prettiest building I have seen. It is square and built on a hill. In the town it was remarkable because it was so quiet compared to other American towns. There is not much trading going on. A little while after, I hired myself to the brig "Potapsco" going to Philadelphia and then to Boston. In four days we were there. It is one hundred and fifty miles from Cape May at the head of Delaware Bay, and it is the most beautiful town in America. All the streets cut each other in right angles. One way they are called by the letters and the other by the figures, so it is very easy to find your way in it. The Americans have their arsenal here. Among other vessels is the great "Pennsylvania", said to be the largest ship afloat. There was a shed built over it, and it looked like a large mountain. Everything on it is so immense I can hardly understand how it is possible to maneuver such a giant. It has one hundred and forty cannons, and five decks. Over the river Schuylkill, where Philadelphia is built, is a remarkable reservoir through which the town gets all its water. After loading with wheat flour we proceeded to Boston without anything happening. Only I have never seen so many birds come from the land as on this journey. Many of the poor birds were so exhausted that they fell in the water 32
Koch, Christian Diary-32