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So we went, of course, and after a long siege of tacking with head winds we came to Micaira River. At the mouth was a German fort with thirty men and two cannons to keep the Negroes from coming out of the river. One mile west of the mouth they were on English ground and then free. By land they could not escape through the bogs and morasses. We should sail eight miles up the river to a sugar plantation to get out load of molasses. We drifted with the tide a piece, but had to anchor when the ebb flowed. Now we found at what a happy land we had arrived. Not a puff of wind - we were about to choke. The mosquitoes, which I thought were bad in New Orleans, were only a drop in the bucket compared to the swarms here that fell on us. It was impossible to escape. Sleep was out of the question. Many nights like that would have turned us into lunatics. We went very slowly, as the current went down eight hours and up for only four. When we anchored for the ebb we amused ourselves shooting birds, especially a flame-colored heron, of which there were thousands. The worst part was to get them out of the bushes after they were shot, as that would raise veritable clouds of mosquitoes. One day we had been ashore, and the captain had bought a baby monkey. It howled and cried so that other monkeys came down from the woods into the trees near the ship, so we could stand on deck and shoot at them. We shot two in this manner - one was a mother with a young one holding fast to her. We got the baby on board, and, although it was quite young, we brought it alive to Boston. At last we reached our destination, which was a large sugar plantation worked by three hundred Negroes belonging to a Scotch doctor. The country here is as low as at Demerara, and all transportation goes through canals cut everywhere through the fields. We thought now the mosquitoes would be better, but as soon as the sun went down they were as bad as ever. We stood it for a few hours, but something had to be done, so we all left the ship and tried to get to the sugar-house which lay two miles further up. There was a little path between two canals, just wide enough to pass on, but it poured down rain and about twenty times I slipped into the canal over my head. We were about to die with fright. The banks were full of water snakes. I had lost both my shoes so I had to go bare-footed through the high grass in fear and trembling of stepping on them. But it was as bad to go back as forward, so we went on, and at last reached the much desired goal, the sugar house. The sugar-cane grinding is done by steam. It was strange to see these black people, with their wild fierce faces lighted only by the fire from the boilers, carrying fuel to the tune of an African song. It is easy to recognize Negroes born in Africa by their fierce expressions and the hideous tattooing all over their breasts and faces here, as everywhere in the Holland Dutch colonies, they are treated most shamefully. Among the many that I saw here there was not a man who did not have scars of the whip so large that you could lay a finger in them. Besides, they have to work day and night - not even Sunday was free. For the least wrong-doing they get punished most severely. Thus I saw a young Negro, for a small offense, receive twenty-five cuts with the whip, and each time it cut out a piece of his flesh. They always have black slave-drivers, and they are said to be much more cruel than the whites. The next morning we began to take in molasses. At night we went up to the sugar house, but it was too far to walk, when we had worked hard all day. So another Dane and I got permission from an old black sheepherder to sleep with him at night, for the mosquitoes do not bother the sheep pens. It did not 35
Koch, Christian Diary-35