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look very comfortable, for in the room where we should sleep was nothing but mud. Every morning there would be a couple of sheep stuck in the mud, and usually dead. But there was no choice - we lay down in the mud, which was stiff enough to hold us up, got a sheep for a pillow, and slept fine for not a mosquito came near us. It rained nearly every day, so with the mud being plastered together with molasses and sugar our clothes were stiff. I have never spent fourteen days in a more uncomfortable manner. It is really a pretty country. The woods are swarming with an unbelievable mass of beautiful birds, deer, and snakes. I saw some wild musk ducks, and some storks - the first I have seen since I left home. There are many Indians here, and they are very handsome. They go naked like the Negroes - the women's aprons are beautifully embroidered with beads. It does not seem to hurt or shame the white ladies in the least to look at all these naked people. They have no kind of vehicle, so they use, instead, boats rowed by six or eight such naked Negroes. The Hollanders here are paying the Indians to find runaway Negroes, and they are very efficient at running them down. One slave ran away from the plantation where we were and they found him after two day's search. They brought him on board the ship, for we were to take him to the fort to be punished. They had his hands tied behind his back, and a rope around his neck by which they pulled him along like a poor animal. When he came to the ship he begged them to loosen his hands a little, as they hurt so, but his master would not allow it. They threw him into a canoe and tied him hard and fast for fear he would jump in the water and drown himself. His punishment consisted of two hundred strokes with the terrible whip, which often caused death. But he got over it, came back, and while we were there with the ship, ran away the second time and without a doubt, reached the English boundary, for they had not found him yet when we left. (Poor devil!) While we were still lying here one day we had a Negro aboard to help us. Toward night lots of snakes always swam across the river to the side where were moored. The Negro saw a large bluish snake coming, and he went out in the water to meet it. He took it up in his hand, and the snake did not try in the least to go aside from him. Usually they run at the least alarm. Although it was a poisonous snake he let it crawl all over his naked body. He stuck his finger in its mouth and it didn't bite him. At last he broke the poisonous fangs out with a nail, and let it go on the ship, as he said it would catch rats. We were so scared of it we didn't dare go to sleep in our bunks, but we never saw it again. The snake was five or six feet long. In the beginning of April, to out great joy we left Nicaya River. We had at first intended to run into Barbadoo to get some bread, but it was too far too the east, so we made St. Vincent instead. South of this island we got in a terrible sea. We could hardly keep the water out of the ship with both pumps. It creaked and groaned in the old hull so we thought she would go down every minute, but we reached the harbor at St. Vincent all right. But now we were determined to leave the ship, and we ordered it condemned. Still we were fools enough to let the captain persuade us to go with him again, and we left the next day. St. Vincent is a very pretty island. It belongs to England, and has the strongest fort I have ever seen. We ran now with the trade winds in among the West Indian islands and arrived at last at St. Croix and St. Thomas. This was the first time I had seen them since I was on the steamer Betsy. We kept in a 36
Koch, Christian Diary-36