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298	TOURS
plants, entirely Japanese, including flowering plum, quince, and peach trees, giant bamboos, and Japanese magnolias. The 174-year-old bronze Buddha and other Japanese figures came from Japan.
-<*■ TRINITY EPISCOPAL CHURCH, NW. corner Second and Church Sts., was built in 1849 ancl stands in a magnificent grove of live oaks thickly hung with moss. The church is a small frame structure of the Gothic type with stained windows and a modern green roof. In the same moss-hung grove, but across the street, is the Live Oak Cemetery established simultaneously with the church.
The DOROTHY DIX HOME (private), 730 W. Beach Blvd., the summer home of the well-known syndicate writer, stands in a large garden shaded by live oaks. It is a rambling story-and-a-half frame structure with triple gables and a wide front gallery adorned with jig-saw latticework and a striking wooden railing. In the rear is a large rose garden.
Right at the second street beyond Miramar Hotel; L. between Trinity Church and the Cemetery, a macadam road leads to BAYOU PORTAGE, 2.1 m., where boat fishing for black bass, rcdfish, and speckled sea trout is good (boats and bait obtainable at pier). At 3-6 m. is the bridge over BAYOU ACADIAN, where fishing is also good. At 4.4 m. is the bridge over BAYOU DELISLE (pron. d'leel), the third good fishing stream crossed. DELISLE (150 pop.), near the mouth of Wolf River and known as Wolf Town until 1SS4, is one of the earliest settlements on the Gulf Coast. The name was changed to the present DeLisle to honor Comte de Lisle, lieutenant to Bienville and one of the first explorers of the Mississippi Coast. The land around DeLisle was first settled in 1712 by the Saucier, Necaise, Ladnier, Dedeaux, and Moran families, who tradition says were Acadian exiles. LJntil recent years the French language was spoken here exclusively, French being used in the schools. Communal life centers about the LADY OI: GOOD HOPE CHURCH, a simple one-room frame building, containing valuable vestments and altar pieces from Europe. At 8 m. is the entrance to PINE HILLS, at the head of the Bay of St. I.ouis, a mammoth real estate enterprise undertaken during the boom of 1926. The pretentious hotel has long been closed, but the 18-hole golf course (open; greens jee $1) is still in operation. Pine Hills marks the highest elevation. 90_f£Ct, on thp const between Pensnrnln, Fla., and Corpus Christ!, Tex. The largest shell Indian mound on the Mississippi Coast is on the v	grounds. At 11 m. the road crosses ROTTEN BAYOU (Bayou Bienasawaugh),
at Fenton. The bayou affords good fishing for bass and bream. The surrounding 1	land is one of the best sections for fox hunting along the Coast, and hunters often
follow the rhasr in aiitnmnhileii At 1m. is KILN (165 pop ), named for the immense kilns in which the original French settlers burned charcoal for a living. Charcoal burning was soon superseded here by sawmilling, but Kiln did not come into the limelight as a lumber town until 1912. In that year, when the mill interests of the section were sold to a large eastern company, Kiln mushroomed from a backwoods community into a town with a high school, picture show, a 50-room hotel, and row after row of neat mill houses. In 1930 the mill closed and Kiln sank into near oblivion. During prohibition the territory around Kiln was the cen-I	ter of a moonshining industry known for the excellent quality of its whisky as far
vj	north as Milwaukee, Wis. Strange tares of giant stills hidden under sawdust piles
and rumored connections of Kiln with Chicago’s Capone gang still afford interest.
On HENDERSON POINT, 63-9 m. (L), is the entrance to the INN-BY-THE-SEA, an interesting adaptation of the Spanish mission style to the Mississippi Gi^If Coast environment.
At 64.5 m. is the head of the two-mile-long wooden bridge across the BAY OF ST. LOUIS. Along the shore of the bay (L) is good salt-water
TOUR I	299
bathing from the sand beach. Fishing is good from the bridge for speckled sea trout, sheepshead, and redfish.
The Bay of St. Louis was the scene of the misnamed Battle of Pass Christian in 1814. British Vice-Admiral Cochrane was following Andrew Jackson from Pensacola, Fla., as Jackson was hurrying to defend New Orleans. In an effort to delay Cochrane’s fleet of 60 vessels and prevent his forcing a passage through Mississippi Sound, Lake Borgne, and Lake Pont-chartrain to New Orleans, the American flotilla of 5 gunboats, commanded by Lt. Thomas Catesby Jones, waylaid the invaders. Jones had stationed his boats in the shallow bay where the enemy’s heavier ships could not follow him. On December 14, the 5 American boats were attacked by 45 British launches and armed boats manned by 1,000 men, and, although Lieutenant Jones showed great bravery and excellent qualities as a commander, within an hour every American vessel was either captured or sunk. The casualties included 80 Americans and 300 British.
The town of BAY ST. LOUIS, 66.6 m. (21 alt., 3,724 pop.), at the time of the battle was known as Shieldsborough, for Thomas Shields, who obtained his grant from the Spanish Government in 1789. Bienville, however, had explored the bay in 1699, naming it St. Louis for the dead and sainted King Louis IX; and in 1720 John Law, Mississippi Bubble promoter, had given the land around the bay to Madame de Mezieres. But the permanence of each of these colonization efforts was as uncertain as French policy. The French-Canadians living about the bay intermarried with the Indians, Spaniards, and Acadians expelled from Nova Scotia, forming the blood strain sometimes incorrectly called creole on the Coast. In the shuttling sovereignties of the 18th century, these forest dwellers around the bay ignored and were ignored by everything that smacked of government. Yet when the British overwhelmed Lieutenant Jones in 1814, Shieldsborough was an established summer retreat for wealthy Natchez planters. Because land titles in this section were based on claims that involved 23 different types of tenure, including claims of the State of Georgia, some of the ablest lawyers of the profession were drawn here. By 1825 Shieldsborough, then also known as Bay St. Louis, rivalled Pearlington as the seat of the Hancock Co. courts. The town was incorporated in 1854. The military road that Andrew Jackson had cut through the pine woods into Shieldsborough was bringing the town a substantial part of the back country trade W. of the Bay St. Louis streams.
The building of the New Orleans, Mobile & Chattanooga R.R. (now the Louisville & Nashville), completed in 1869, lent impetus to the development of the town as a summer resort. Since 1905 the growth of Bay St. Louis has been a paradox; the town has been a victim of progress. As long as it was isolated by the Louisiana marshes, the Jordan River, and the bay, it was a liberal, detached, and moneyed country community. But improved transportation facilities have resulted in making it more of a resort and less of a rural center.
The beach front includes a portion of the business section. Main Street follows a high ridge, which in turn follows the sea-wall. On the beach side of this street many of the frame buildings have entrances level with the